Istanbul: entry rules, getting around and a first-visit plan

Istanbul sits on two continents, with the Bosphorus between them and more history per street than most cities have in total. It is also a large, busy metropolis. A little preparation on entry rules and transport makes the first days much easier.

Entry: check your nationality first

Türkiye's Ministry of Foreign Affairs publishes the rules for each nationality. Broadly:

• citizens of many countries can visit without a visa, often for up to 90 days in any 180-day period;
• others can get an e-Visa online for tourism or business, which the Ministry says takes about three minutes;
• some travellers qualify for a conditional e-Visa. For example, Indian ordinary passport holders with a valid Schengen, US, UK or Ireland visa or residence permit can get a single-entry e-Visa valid for one month.

Passport validity

Turkish law asks for a passport that is valid for at least 60 days beyond your permitted stay. The Ministry's own example: with a 90-day visa, your passport needs 150 days of validity from arrival. For a short holiday, that means a passport with at least a few months left.

From the airport to the city

Istanbul has two main airports. Istanbul Airport (IST), on the European side, is linked to the city by the M11 metro line to Gayrettepe, where you change to the M2 line towards Taksim and the centre. Airport buses and taxis also run to most districts. Sabiha Gökçen (SAW) is on the Asian side, which suits stays in Kadıköy.

Taxi times vary enormously with traffic. If you land at rush hour, the metro is often faster.

Getting around

• Istanbulkart is the city's travel card, run by the municipality. One card works on the metro, trams, buses, funiculars and public ferries, and can be topped up at machines in stations.
• Tram T1 links the airport-bus hubs, the Grand Bazaar area, Sultanahmet, Eminönü and Kabataş.
• Public ferries cross between Europe and Asia all day. They are among the cheapest and most beautiful rides in the city; the crossing from Eminönü or Karaköy to Kadıköy is a good first trip.

Walking is often the best way to connect neighbourhoods on the historic peninsula, though many streets are steep and cobbled.

Where to stay

Sultanahmet puts you next to the main monuments but is quiet at night. Karaköy and Beyoğlu have more restaurants and nightlife and good tram and ferry links. Kadıköy, on the Asian side, feels more local and is a short ferry ride from the old city.

Money

The currency is the Turkish lira. Cards are widely accepted in hotels, restaurants and shops, and contactless payments are common. Keep some cash for small shops, markets and tips.

When a card machine or ATM offers to charge you in your own currency, choose lira instead: the conversion offered at the till is usually more expensive.

Visiting mosques

Istanbul's great mosques are working places of worship and are open to visitors outside prayer times.

• Dress modestly: shoulders and knees covered for everyone; women cover their hair. Scarves are often available at the entrance.
• Take your shoes off before entering and carry them in a bag.
• Avoid visiting during prayers, especially at midday on Fridays.
• Speak quietly and don't photograph people praying.

A three-day plan for a first visit

Day 1: the historic peninsula. Start early at Sultanahmet: Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque and the Basilica Cistern. After lunch, walk to the Grand Bazaar (closed on Sundays) and down to the Spice Bazaar at Eminönü.

Day 2: Beyoğlu and the Bosphorus. Cross Galata Bridge, climb to Galata Tower and walk İstiklal Avenue. In the afternoon, take a public Bosphorus ferry tour, or visit Dolmabahçe Palace (closed on Mondays).

Day 3: Asia and the Golden Horn. Take the ferry to Kadıköy for the food market and the Moda seafront. Back in Europe, explore the colourful streets of Balat and Fener.

Opening days change, so check each site before you go.

Safety and emergencies

Istanbul is generally safe for visitors, but crowded places attract pickpockets. Keep bags closed and phones out of back pockets, especially on trams and at busy sights.

According to GOV.UK, the emergency number in Türkiye is 112 for ambulance, fire and police.

When to go

Spring (April to June) and autumn (September to October) bring mild weather and long days for walking. Summer is hot and busy. Winter is cool and damp, but museums are quieter.